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Turban
How To Tie A Basic Turban: If your hair is short, try to get hold of a towelling hair covering. Put this on first and make sure that most of the hair is tucked away. If your hair is long, secure it in a pony tail. Use a BASE cloth of approx. 400mm wide and 1.5m long. A cotton material is best for this as it absorbes perspiration well. If the base cloth is too wide then fold it in half lenghtwise with the fold forward. Set the centre point of the BASE cloth on your forehead and drape the ends of the fabric across your shoulders. It will look like you have two pig tails. Now, gather up the fabric on each side, holding it as close to your earlobes as possible and start to twist the material. You should now have a "cap" on top of your head. You must experiment with this part, so that it is neither too tight or too loose. Pull the two "pig tails" behind your neck, exchange sides and make the right one (originally) come over the left ear and left side over the right, cross in front and take to the back. Tie the ends or tuck into the beginning of the wrap. An option is to leave a decorative end dangling on one side. Now use lighter scarves of different colours to wind into the BASE cloth. Add jewelry, silk flowers and/or hat pins to make your turban original. Click here for Pattern.
Veil
Measure form finger-tip to finger- tip with your arms stretched out, sideways, at shoulder level. Add another 400mm Eg. 1.8m stretch + 400 mm = 2.2m material purchased. When held up at shoulder level in this way, the veil should not fall than lower that mid-shin. Purchase some braid and sew it to both long ends of the veil. This will allow you to feel which is the long end without looking down and fumbling during the dance. Heavy braid will also help to weight a light, flyaway fabric such as silk or chiffon. A heavier fabric will need a lighter braid.
Cabaret Bra
The beaded and sequined bra has become an expected part of the cabaret costume. The bra is, however, a Western development and although Middle eastern dancers wear them now, they were not invented there. Ready made sequines bras are available from costume suppliers but they are both expensive and do not always fit well. It is accepted that you will have to take the purchased garment home and still do alterations. If you decide to make your own, purchase an under-wired, firm cupped bra which will give you good support. Most times it will be necessary to go for 1 * cup size larger than you normally wear. Be sure that the straps are not likely to fall off the shoulders. |The positioning of the strap at the back can be moved towards centre back to guard against this. Another option is to change the straps to halter-neck for better cleavage. If you have sufficient time available, sequin the bra by hand. Each sequin is topped by a small bead to hold it in place. If time is a constraint, then cover the bra in fabric by gathering or using small darts under the bust and then decorate. Straps can be covered by using a small sheath of material or by beading. Cutting away the side support between the elastic can also be very effective. Decorate with fringing, beads, sequins etc. Once finished, your costume bra should not resemble underwear. Click here for Pattern.
Choli Top
The choli top can be likened to a short T-shirt made from a stretch material. If using a non-stretch material, it can be backless, with ties at the neck and mid-back. In most cases you will need to open the seam under the armpits or insert a gusset for freedom of arm movement. Decorate with beads, coins, sequins etc.
Loose Sleeves
Loose sleeves can be made by measuring the distance from upper arm to wrist and then adding an extra 10cm. Hem and stitch a “sticky” elastic (used on the inside of most strapless bras) to the upper part. This elastic is normally available at most material shops.
You can either: a) Hem and gather the wrist area to elastic, taking care not to make it too tight, or b) Make a hem and thread a draw-string through it so that the sleeve can be left open or can be gathered at the wrist. Use attractive braid, beads and or sequins to disguise stitching and to weigh the sleeve.
The Classical 3/4 Circle Skirt
For the length of material required, measure from your hip to the floor and add at least 200 mm. Multiply this measurement by 3. Eg. 1m+200mm= 1.2m*3= 3.6m . The width of the material should not be longer than 1.2m. Divide the material in 3 along the length. Measure 200mm from the corner that has one side as a fold and the other side as a selvage. Cut this cone section out. Measure form this cut-out down each side using the (hip-floor) measurement. Cut out in 1/4 circle. You will now have 2 pieces of material. 1 * 1/2 circle (back) and 1 * 1/4 circle (front). Stitch to a wide piece of elastic. The front should cover across the abdomen, hip bone to hip bone. The back should cover from the hip bone,around the hip, across the lower back, over the other hip to the other hip bone. Edge and hem where necessary. Decorate with braiding or beads if required. Click here for Pattern.
Sheath Skirt Is made up of 2 pieces of material that hang flat against the body, the material is attached to a wide piece of elastic at the hips. A variation is to follow the pattern of a reasonably snug fitting skirt leaving the side seams open to the top of the thigh. Make sure that the skirt is not too snug fitting or otherwise it will “creep” . Remember too that Chalwar should be worn under the skirt.
Chalwar
Chalwar can be made by using a basic tracksuit trouser pattern and make the legs wider and the front a little lower.
OR
A really easy way is to buy 3 times your thigh measurement in fabric. Cut it half and stitch each half to make a tube. Purchse a comfortable pair of bikini underwear in a colour that will work with the material purchased. Make a mark approx 150mm from the top, down the stitched side on both tubes. Cut out a triangle. The folded side will fit more or less at the hip end of the underwear. Stitch into the leg opening of the underwear. Turn up a cuff at the other end and feed through some elastic. This will fit around your ankle. "voila" a quick pair of chalwar, without having to worry about a gusset etc. This method will only work for chalwar that are to be worn under a skirt as the underwear is obviously visible. Click here for Pattern.
Hankerchief or Petal Skirt
This is quick and easy and can be made out of one or two pieces of material (for extra layers). You will require a piece of material approx. 1.2m-1.5m (if you are tall) square. Cut a hole in the centre, large enough to pull on with ease. Stitch a wide circle of elastic into this hole. The elastic must fit comfortably around the hip area. Add an extra layer of material in the same of a different colour if you would like more than one layer. Make sure the points of the second layer overlap the straight edges of the first layer. Decorate as required. Click here for Pattern.
Coin Hip Scarf/Belt
Normally made in Egypt, Middle or Far east. There are many different qualities available, so be careful when you buy. Length is normally about 1.2m with a width of approx. 400mm. Coins and /or beads are crocheted in lengths and along one length. The short ends also have coins and crochet work.
Form Fitting Hip Belt
Using a double sheet of newspaper, cut out a shallow "V" or "U" shape with the middle of the design at the fold. Open it out and fit it to your body by making darts in the upper edge of the paper, until the desired shape is attained. Pin or sticky-tape all the alterations then re-cut the altered design to make a pattern. Pin this pattern to material of your choice and cut out with at least an extra 2cm allowance all the way round. Cut the exact pattern (no allowance) out of some stiffening or interfacing. (cut 2) Pin the material to the interfacing. Snip at intervals and fold over the interfacing. Either glue or iron in place. Take the second piece of interfacing and iron, stitch or glue it to cover the folded pieces of material. Use a flat bar and hook to secure. Decorate with fringing, beads, jewels, coins, chains etc. Click here for Pattern.
Canes
A pine dowel approx 900mm long, with a diameter between 10 – 16mm. Wrap the dowel in coloured tape or ribbon and decorate as desired. Wrap a long elastic band around one end as a ‘grip' or glue on plastic/rubber ferrules. Dowel and ferrules are available at most hardware stores. This pictures shows a cane with a hooked end and if this is what you desire, then a light weight walking stick will suffice. This particular type of cane can be imported from Egypt and is normally available from a supplier of belly dance wear
A cotton material is best for this as it absorbes perspiration well. 
Measure form finger-tip to finger- tip with your arms stretched out, sideways, at shoulder level. Add another 400mm 
Ready made sequines bras are available from costume suppliers but they are both expensive and do not always fit well. It is accepted that you will have to take the purchased garment home and still do alterations. 
The choli top can be likened to a short T-shirt made from a stretch material. 
Loose sleeves can be made by measuring the distance from upper arm to wrist and then adding an extra 10cm. Hem and stitch a “sticky” elastic (used on the inside of most strapless bras) to the upper part. This elastic is normally available at most material shops. 
For the length of material required, measure from your hip to the floor and add at least 200 mm. Multiply this measurement by 3. Eg. 1m+200mm= 1.2m*3= 3.6m . 
Chalwar can be made by using a basic tracksuit trouser pattern and make the legs wider and the front a little lower. 
This is quick and easy and can be made out of one or two pieces of material (for extra layers). 
There are many different qualities available, so be careful when you buy. Length is normally about 1.2m with a width of approx. 400mm. Coins and /or beads are crocheted in lengths and along one length. The short ends also have coins and crochet work. 
Using a double sheet of newspaper, cut out a shallow "V" or "U" shape with the middle of the design at the fold. Open it out and fit it to your body by making darts in the upper edge of the paper, until the desired shape is attained. Pin or sticky-tape all the alterations then re-cut the altered design to make a pattern. 
A pine dowel approx 900mm long, with a diameter between 10 – 16mm. Wrap the dowel in coloured tape or ribbon and decorate as desired. Wrap a long elastic band around one end as a ‘grip' or glue on plastic/rubber ferrules. Dowel and ferrules are available at most hardware stores. This pictures shows a cane with a hooked end and if this is what you desire, then a light weight walking stick will suffice. This particular type of cane can be imported from Egypt and is normally available from a supplier of belly dance wear